Radio Dash Bezel

Posted on May 11, 2012 by

Someone might ask, so what’s a Bezel? According to the dictionary a bezel is a beveled face or part. Okay so now that you know, do you want one? If you’re into automotive restorations, you probably already know the answer to the question.

At the Fabrication Department at Jeff Lilly Restoration, Lou is planning on installing an up to date modern radio, CD and heater and don’t forget the air conditioning tuner. No problem, right? Yes, problem, because it will have to look very similar to the original one manufactured long before CD’s and most cars manufac-tured in that era did not even have air conditioning.
Now, does that sound simple? It is just another day at the job and Lou will be the one to assemble, fabricate and install it on the dashboard of this car. Of course the fabrication comes first.

The stock radio that came direct from the factory was fiberglass, and it had a pebble fin-ished grain on the inside and a chrome bead on the outer edge. The radio consisted of an AM/FM Philco radio, and on the bottom was the heater switch. Compared to today’s car radios the one that came out of that older car looked simplistic. The objective here was to install crea-ture comforts of the modern world, and the air conditioning would not be eliminated.

To get the new piece to look similar to the original Lou cut a 12 gauge stainless steel piece in 1/2 inch strips. He will use the strips so they can keep the chrome bead look, and he will polish the edge before it’s completed but not until the unit gets painted black.
Lou first had to bend the stainless steel to match the original bezel and he tweaked it by hand. It was easier to use this method rather than the power tools, for more control was neces-sary especially on small parts.

He also used 20 gauge steel to finish the area where the Air conditioner and heater con-trols would fit into the new bezel. He center marked it and prepared to cut. Like any other fabri-cation Lou measured before he did any trimming to the auto restoration vehicle. He used a car-bide burr in an angle grinder and he had to be really careful for it to fit properly. Already it has taken shape and the entire area has only a razor blade gap.
He tack welded some more with the stainless edging to the carbon steel face plate. He did that on the back side so it wouldn’t be seen.

He clamped it and held it in place as he hammer tweaked it into the exact placement be-fore he used the welder. He then welded it up solid on the inside edge that goes around the air conditioner bezel.

Lou continued working to get everything to fit into the small space, and with each new process he checked and rechecked his measurements. Yet he rarely made a mistake and when he turned the radio over to the back side you could see the tight space and it was filled to ca-pacity. Comparing the new unit with the old the part that showed on the dash looked very similar yet it had all the necessary parts.

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G.M. Cowl Hood

Posted on May 4, 2012 by

Everyone agrees that the 1980s Camaros were cool looking, but unless you had an Iroc, they were void of the muscular look that was associated with the first generation Camaro. To get started on a 1986 Camaro Lou’s going to dress it up with a few special touches.

# 1 Our stock Camaro awaits its new Cowl Hood upgrade. Bone stock and flat, with a few lines.
# 2 The first step is to find out the minimum clearance needed between the top of the air cleaner assembly to the hood panel. We use a K&N open element on this particular project.
# 3 The hood was stripped down to bare steel. We flipped the hood over and you can see GM built a lot of reinforcement to compensate for the thin outer panel which is 22 gauge at best. We cut away all the caulk/adhesive holding the outer panel to the inner structure.
# 4 We drew out the basic areas with a Sharpie where we were going to slice.
# 5 We then put 3M weld protection paper on the windshield where we were going to slice.
# 6 We cut the panel off and measured the air filter to hood clearance.
# 7 By factory design, the engine sits off center in the chassis, and Lou cut a circle one half inch outside the outer filters diameter for extra clearance room to allow the engine torque side to side.
# 8 The filter was then installed and it clears during the opening and closing.
# 9 Lou cut out some metal and rolled it into a circle the same diameter as our cutout in the hood.
#10 He fit it to the hood then tack welded it in place. With a Sharpie he marked the wavy irregu-lar shapes of the inner structure to the net metal, then cut the tack welds free, removed and trimmed it to fit.
#11 The result was a stiffened inner panel that custom fits the contours. We tack weld every inch and will fully weld it later.
#12 Then he put the original center panel back down in place and tack welded the very front to stabilize it. We checked it out and it looked fine.
#13 The wing nut on the air filter has approximately 1/2” clearance. We bent some aluminum bar stock to match the hoods contour and inserted it down the center to stabilize the panel.
#14 On the sides we bend 1/4” rod to match the slope we’re after and made a template for exact duplication. That’s mandatory on every auto restoration project in this era.
#15 Some increment rod material was cut to act as pillars in order to strengthen the main rod so it will take the weight of the new panel.
#16 Lou then tack welded them and kept checking to make sure nothing moved.
#17 He then fabbed some 18 gauge reinforcement walls to fit in around the wavy slopes of the inner structure. The top edge was matched to the same template that the 1/4” rods were made from.
#18 We decided it looked good and continued.
#19 Lou made a 1/4” wire to match the windshields shape as this will be used to reinforce the back.
#20 We determined that 4.5 inches longer than the stock hood was the best distance and cut some metal to fit.

And that’s not all, there’s more, much more as Lou continued working on every part of the cowl hood until he got it to look exactly as he wanted. Everyone was happy with the final look and the aggressive but subtle new look of the 1986 Camaro.

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Auto Restoration Dent Removal

Posted on April 30, 2012 by

As you identify the areas on your muscle car that will require different methods to repair them, Bob the finisher at Jeff Lilly’s Restorations, will show how he has developed his skills in removing dents. Let’s start with the tools you will need along with a brief description:
HAMMER One that has a slight crown or dome that keeps it from making contact on the outside edge it will give you a smoother finish.

DOLLIES And you’ll need several as you will need to match the crown of the dolly with the hammer you’re using.
SLAP FILES We’ll describe how we use these later on.
METAL FILE One with 8 teeth per inch.
ANGLE GRINDER You’ll find about this as we go.
BLOCK & 80 GRIT Sandpaper on a 17” block to finish the project and prepare for primer.
PIN SPOT WELDER The pins come in different sizes 7/64 1/8 etc. Most pin spotters are set to weld the pin to the metal without burning.
DING NEAR PEFECT TOOL Is very similar to a rivet gun with a circular basket on the end.

Now that you know which tools to have on hand for this auto restoration project, lets take this 1 step at a time and show you how to accomplish successful dent removal on your project.

#1 Deepest Dents We start with the deepest dent because it will be the hardest one to repair. Any dent that is 1/8th of an inch in depth should be worked out to about 80% using the hammer as described above with the matching dolly.
#2 The Key is the Spiral You’ll rarely find a perfectly round dent, but for explanation purposes start on the outside and work the dolly and hammer in a circular motion until you meet in the center. Doing it this way you’re actually gathering the metal bit by bit.
#3 Hold the Dolly It’s important how you hold the dolly. Hold it 1/8th to 1/4 inch inside the dent and away from where the hammer will actually strike on the outside. Doing it this way you will not have to strike the panel as hard. However if you don’t have the vehicle apart, you won’t be able to gain access to the back side.
#4 Slap Filing When 80% of the dent disappears start with the slap file for the final removal of the dent, but you can also remove smaller dents using the dolly and the slap file without using the hammer.
#5 Slap File Method Is actually the reverse of the hammer/dolly method. While still using the spiral tech-nique slap the panel in the same direction that the dent was put in. place the dolly on the back side with a bit 2 lbs. of force directly on the outer edge of the dent and the slap file needs to touch on the same spot where the dolly is placed on the opposite side. In other words, they should meet. The teeth on the file al-lows the metal being pushed from the dolly to work itself into the teeth. This allows the dent to come back to the surface and bit by bit the serrated teeth fill with metal.
#6 Pin Spot Welder Place the pin on the designated center of the dent and pull the trigger. The welded pin is now ready to pull.
#7 Ding Near Perfect Tool The dent will be pulled right out.
#8 Grinder Used to grind the pin weld down to nothing and now is ready for the next step.
#9 Metal File Is then run over the dent and it cuts metal nicely. Slide the file in an X pattern across the panel. It shaves off the top.
#10 Inspect To see the highs and lows and that will give you a gauge to where you are in the process. If you need to slap more, this is the time.
#11 Do it Again This is where the block goes to work, and you’re ready for a few coats of high build pri-mer, and you’re ready for paint.

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Soda Blasting Paint Removal on Automobiles

Posted on April 27, 2012 by

Some have hailed the soda blasting technique as a revolutionary technology for cleaning and stripping paint off cars. It can gently strip paint off the body and panels of cars without damaging or warping them, thanks to the non-destructive characteristic of its abrasive. This technique requires no toxic chemicals, making it relatively safe to use. Instead, it uses compressed air to propel a bicarbonate-of-soda media to effectively remove any paint or contaminants on the surface without damaging the surface underneath.

The blast material itself is actually sodium bicarbonate which has been specially-formulated to remove paint and contaminants on the body of a car. You may be more familiar with its household name baking soda, which would explain why this paint-stripping technique is known as soda blasting. Environmentalists can rejoice in the fact that baking soda is a non-toxic non-hazardous food-grade material that dissolves in water easily and is 100% friendly to the environment. These soda blast particles remove surface contaminants through energy that is released when they explode upon making contact with the surface. This explosion occurs due to being driven onto surface with strong pressure. The energy which is released disrupts the contaminated surface but leaves the substrate unaffected.

A major advantage of the soda blasting technique is that no additional tools are needed to strip paint off automobiles. Sanders and grinders are not required to remove paint from the surface. This significantly reduces the time needed to prepare and strip a car clean, which can take days, to a short three to four hours. Another reason soda blasting is preferred when it comes to removing paint from cars is because it does so without damaging the metal, glass, rubber, chrome and aluminum trimmings of the car. Soda blasting is not limited to paint removal only. In fact, it is also perfect for cleaning and stripping fiberglass, composite parts and panels of a car. This is largely due to its ability to remove anything on the surface of a car’s body without damaging the bodywork on the underlying surface.

The revolutionary soda blasting technique has eliminated the need for sanding, soaking, scrubbing and destructive abrasive blasting in paint removal for automobiles.

It also doesn’t create heat on impact with panels and surface despite being shot at high pressure and exploding upon contact. Hence, there is no concern of soda blasting causing metals to warp or distort due to heat, unlike sandblasting which can warp and distort metals due to the heat that results from making contact with surface. In severe cases, you may find these damages hard to repair. Soda blasting is applied dry and is suitable on a wide range of surfaces such as metal, aluminum, timber, fiberglass and stainless steel, among others.

Aside from removing paint, soda blasting can also be used to remove surface contaminants like carbon, grease, oil, gasket material, surface corrosion, plastics, composites and of course, paint from a variety of alloys. The technique allows for thorough cleaning and stripping of paint and these surface contaminants while leaving hard and anodized coatings intact. This is because its 100% water solubility allows the baking soda to rinse out any contaminants lodged in tight nooks and crannies and removes paint from a car’s body right down to its base material.

However, although it is harsh on surface contaminants, soda blasting will not damage or infiltrate the hydraulics and engine parts of the car. It reduces the time spent on manual labor and yet, gives the car a better finish. The baking soda’s non-toxic and biodegradable properties also ensure it is not detrimental to the human health or environment. One merely needs to hose down the car with water when they are done to rinse off the baking soda.

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Windshield washer change

Posted on April 13, 2012 by

A main concern you should have when the weather turns bad is to have functional windshield washers on your vehicle. It is important for the safety of you and your passengers, as well as giving you a clearer view in the rain or snow. During the winter, if you have the experience of being blinded by dirty snow residue on your windshields while driving, even in the day, you’ll be aware how dangerous it could be.

A flick of the windshield washer can make a lot of difference, making your windshield clean in just seconds, so that you will not risk crashing into something when temporary blinded in the heavy rain or snow. So when you find anything faulty with your windshield washer, be sure to check it and change it if necessary.

You can start by checking the components of the windshield washer. First, turn off the car engine and release the lock of the hood of your vehicle by pulling the hood release lever in your car. Then, open the hood and insert the brace so that the car hood can be held up and open while you work.

Now, locate the washer fluid reservoir, which usually is a white plastic jug containing blue washer fluid. When the temperature is cold, plastic reservoirs may crack at the seams if you did not use special winter washer fluids that contain antifreeze. If the reservoir is cracked, replace a new one. If nothing is wrong with the reservoir, turn on the vehicle ignition key to activate the washer squirter. Then, follow the hoses from the reservoir to the nozzles of the squirter, and look for any leaks, especially at the barbed plastic fittings. Check for plumbing leaks as well, as hoses may crack or detach at fittings. You can remove the squirter nozzle to see more clearly.

If the washer fluid spurts from the hoses but does not emerge from the squirters, unclog them using a wire or blast them with compressed air. After checking everything, test whether the squirter switch transmits power to the reservoir pump using a test light. If it doesn’t, check whether there is a blown fuse. If power is supplied to the reservoir pump, but the fluid is not pushed, remove the pump and replace a new one.

Ensuring that your brake fluid is always at optimal level is an essential part of vehicle maintenance. Brake fluid should be changed every two years, so that hydraulic components will be protected from internal corrosion and so that your vehicle brakes will not fail prematurely.

To check the brake fluid, you should first find the reservoir and then clean its top carefully, as any dirt falling into the brake fluid may cause the master cylinder’s internal seals to fail. Then, open the top of the brake fluid reservoir. If it is a little plastic reservoir, just unscrew its cap. If there is a metal master cylinder containing the reservoir, pry off the retaining clamp using a screwdriver.  However, do note that you should always keep the master cylinder covered, and do not let an open can of brake fluid sit around for too long, as it will ruin the fluid.

After opening, check the fluid level. It should be within half an inch of the cap. If it is not up to the optimal level, add some brake fluid. In addition, check the brake fluid’s color. If the color is too dark, the brake fluid should be replaced by a mechanic, as it has deteriorated over time. If the reservoir happens to be empty, you may need to bleed the brake system.

When you check the brake system, there are a few points worth noting. First, brake fluid is a toxic substance, so you need to take any partially used brake fluid cans and any rags with fluid on them to a toxic waste center for proper disposal. Brake fluid also eats paint, so be careful not to get it on any painted surface and clean the surface immediately if it happens. Grease or oil will also ruin your hydraulic brake system, so don’t get either one in your brake fluid.

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Techniques on Removing Paint with Aircraft Stripper

Posted on April 6, 2012 by

Removing paint can be a time-consuming and tedious affair, but it can be sped up considerably with the use of an aircraft stripper. Contrary to what its name suggests, the aircraft stripper is not restricted to aircraft’s but can be also used to remove paint on cars, trucks, vans and other types of vehicles. You don’t need any auto experience to use an aircraft stripper as it is straightforward and easy to use. What you will need to do is practice extra caution when dealing with the chemical.

The most important thing to do when handling the chemical is to wear rubber gloves. This is because the chemical is corrosive and may burn the skin off your flesh upon contact. So unless you cherish the idea of having no skin, your best bet will be to put on some rubber gloves. They may slow down your movements slightly, but it’s better to be clumsy than to be in pain. It is also equally important to ensure your work area is well-ventilated. This is because you do not want to run the risk of inhaling noxious fumes which will seriously damage your health. Also, remove any glass or rubber from your vehicle which you do not want to get damaged.

After slipping on your rubber gloves, start pouring some aircraft stripper over the area which you want to remove the paint from. However, do not pour too much or it will eat into the metal underneath the paint as well. Step back and wait a few minutes as the chemical works its magic. Soon, you will see the paint lifting and looking like it has bubbles underneath. At this point, you can use a putty knife, a tool which is normally used for glazing single-glazed windows, to scrape off the paint. Alternatively, you can use a plastic squeegee in place of the putty knife. Just keep scraping the old paint off until the surface is bare. The number of times you have to repeat this step depends on the number of coatings.

When you have scraped the paint off until you can see the exposed surface, affix an 80-grit sandpaper to a dual action sander and sand the area. This will get rid of any stubborn leftover paint from the surface that was not removed by the aircraft stripper. Additionally, this process will rough up the area’s surface which is good in providing a firm hold for paint and bodywork. However, take care in not spending too much time on one specific area. Sanding in a particular spot for long periods of time will generate heat which can cause the metal underneath the surface to warp and distort. This could lead to more damages and repairs. After the area is smooth, switch the 80-grit sandpaper with 120-grit sandpaper and sand the entire area again. The smoother sandpaper will minimize the scratches from the earlier sandpaper.

Sometimes, the automotive industry uses powder paint to paint vehicles because they are more durable than liquid paint. You need not fret as the aircraft stripper works just as well on powder paint. The most important thing is to remember to wear protective gear like trousers, long-sleeved shirts, rubber gloves and safety glasses to avoid eye and skin contact with the aircraft stripper. Apply a generous coating of the chemical on the area which you want paint to be stripped off from.

If you are concerned for the environment, you can opt for eco-friendly aircraft strippers that are specially-formulated to remove powder paint from vehicles. Wait a few minutes as the chemical dissolves the powder paint before wiping it off with a cloth. Repeat this step a few more times until all traces of the powder paint is dissolved and wiped clean. Just use water to neutralize and rinse off the aircraft stripper when you are done.

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Consoles and Shifter Choices in Muscle Cars

Posted on March 16, 2012 by

Just what are muscle cars? The term muscle car is used with reference to a variety of high performance vehicles. It is generally used to term a rear wheel 2-door mid size car, and sometimes referring to full size cars equipped with a large powerful engine. These cars were originally used  for both formal and informal drag racing, as well as street use.

So why were consoles and shifters used and what exactly are they? Generally, automobile consoles (also known as the center console) refers to the center part in front of the vehicle’s interior, where the control bearings are situated. The term is usually used to describe the area from the beginning of the dashboard all the way to beneath it, and often time to the part where the transmission tunnel merges. Traditionally, vehicles place a gear stick where the two areas of console and tunnel merge, or near the rear most end of the console without the transmission tunnels (for front wheel drive cars). Nowadays, everything at the front interior from the dash board to the cup holder is considered the console of a car.

On the other hand, a shifter generally refers to the lever that is used to change gears in the vehicle.  A shifter could come in either manual transmission, automatic transmission, or both.  There are many synonyms to this terms, some of them are, gear stick, gear lever, gear shifter, or selection lever.

There are many choices of muscle car shifter and consoles. The all time famous shifter for muscle cars would obviously be Hurst Shifters; it has been said to have cured all muscle car owner’s gear shift headaches. Most of the time, owners of 50s car would probably face the headache of the factory gear shift. The factory gear shift is the weak link between the engine and the pavement. Hurst Shifters are a floor mounted gear shifter. They are meticulously constructed and loved by many of the owners or racers and features a reverse lockout. This system prevents throwing the transmission into reverse by mistake. It became a favorite for most muscle car owners due to its performance as well as its safety features. Another choice of a car shifter includes the high performance shifter for automatic transmissions – also known as the dual gate used on G.M cars like 442 and the Buick G.S etc.

Classic consoles began its operations in the year 1997, with the mission to create a high quality product centered on the classic muscle cars of the 1960s.  There were over 40,000 consoles and drink holders being sold nationwide since the year 1997. Consoles such as the “Cruiser” and the “Plug & Chug” were designed and fitted for car interiors, as well as the more modern muscle cars.

These consoles not only offer functionality, but also awesome looks for the cars interior. The consoles are fully upholstered in vinyl to matches the color of the interior – to make it blend in with the original colors. The muscle car console could also be installed and uninstalled in a matter of minutes as companies understood that some of the owners do not want to alter the interior for life, but to temporarily “dress up” the cars.  There are also different designs to match with the different occasions where you will be bringing your car – from cruising, to a former event.

To sum it all, consoles and shifters are important to a car especially muscle cars. The front interior of the car is usually used to accommodate both the shifter and the console. The definition of a console varies between individuals or even companies. Through evolution some of the shifters are more preferred as compared to others, due to the current safety measures.

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Cleaning auto glass

Posted on February 24, 2012 by

Drivers spend most of their time looking through the windshield other than the occasional cat winks they may try to catch when it’s red at an intersection. Auto glass should be kept clean for the simple reason of providing a clear view for the driver. No matter if it’s the front windshield when driving, back windshield when backing up or side windows when looking at the side mirrors, it is very important to keep the exterior surface of the glass clean. What most drivers don’t realize is when auto glass is not cleaned with the appropriate techniques the glass will  become dirtier over time.

Dusts particles are electrically charged and if left on the surface of the auto glass, they could easily attract more dust. Cleaning your auto glass should not only include running a soap sponge across it, but owners should also take measures in ensuring that dust is prevented from binding to the surface. Old stains that are left from previous cleaning could become harder to remove with subsequent cleaning and may become permanent in time. These stains are not meant to be stubborn but improper cleaning techniques may only further aggravate it. Hence, it’s always wise to be informed of the right cleaning techniques before attempting to clean auto glass.

A good choice of cleaners is equally important when it comes to cleaning auto glass. As many experts have advised over time, ammonia cleaners should be avoided for simple reasons that follow:

●    Ammonia could be released as toxic fumes. This is especially dangerous when drivers are placed within the enclosure of their own cars and the air is constantly recycled.
●    Ammonia is also bad for the many rubber gaskets that run around the windows. These rubber linings may dry out and deteriorate, making its lifetime shorter than the normal lifespan.
●    Ammonia is harmful the to the tint film of auto glass. Drivers who have their car tinted are often forewarned that they should avoid using ammonia cleaners.

An ideal cleaner would be one that’s ammonia free, but is also capable of removing stubborn stains such as protein based residue left from bug remains. These may require special formulas that will be indicated on the label of the cleaners.

After finding an appropriate cleaner, cleaning the auto glass shouldn’t be a problem. Cleaning auto glass usually comes after a car wash, where the usual routine of soaping and spraying is able to remove most of the larger dirt particles from the surface of the glass. After the car is back from the wash, clean the glass by spraying small amounts of the cleaner on the glass and then buff the glass by using a soft towel. Be careful in choosing a lint-free towel when cleaning the glass to avoid leaving the glass with streaks of lint that may attract dust later on, thus micro fiber towels are often used to clean auto glass to the finest degree. The type of Micro fiber towels that should be chosen are those that have a low pile and are tightly woven.

The glass should be inspected sideways from time to time to ensure that the entire surface has been covered. Cleaning the exterior surface of the glass could be done from the front of the car to the back, not forgetting the side view mirrors as they’re equally important. The interior surface may require a little more effort as it could only be accessed from within the car. The windows could be rolled down to reach it from outside of the car, but will later have to be wound back up to clean the remaining uncovered parts.

The routine of cleaning auto glass is not entirely complete without polishing the glass. As many cleaners are unable to remove water spots, polishing is a simple trick in cleaning the stains that is often overlooked by owners. Polishing is able to provide a shiny finish and prevent dust from attaching to the surface of the car, leaving the glass looking new until the next cleaning.

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Classic Car Radio Reception

Posted on February 17, 2012 by

Driving a classic car does not mean that you have to have it all stock. You can change a lot of the parts on your car to make it look and feel newer- a classic car with a modern twist known as a resto-mod. If your car does not have a radio or the radio is already broken, it does not mean it has to stay that way.

There are quite a number of companies that manufacture radios for classic cars. The new radios come in different shapes, sizes and of course designs to suit your preference. Certain companies provide custom made radio services. You can choose any design, classic or old, and change it to the size that can fit into the space in your car.

Although most companies nowadays produce digital radios, there are still companies that provide you with a classical dial type radio- those which you have to turn the knob to and fro to find the right radio frequency instead of just pressing the buttons. These companies, however, are not as common, and the radios can cost you a small fortune. You should always do a little research. Some companies might provide the same type of radios at a lower price because they use different materials.

If your classic car already has a radio but the reception is lousy or the radio has totally broken down, it is not necessary to change the whole radio. You can send it in to a repair shop that specializes and see if they can work their magic and restore your radio to its former glory. Sometimes it’s just a small wire hooked up wrong that causes bad radio reception. Classic Car radios look more in place in your classic car. Keeping everything intact could also increase the market value of your car, should you decide to sell it off someday.

Some classic car radios have bad AM reception or the AM frequency reception doesn’t work anymore. In this case, there are companies that can help change the system. Certain companies can add FM frequencies to your radio. On the other hand, if your radio only has FM reception (which is quite rare) you can also add the AM reception to it. It is not necessary to discard your radio. Just a few tweaks here and there, a few chips and voila! Your radio reception will be as good as new, or even better.

The Internet is a good place to start your search for services and or parts. It is fast and convenient, and produces a lot of results for every search. All you need is a little time and patience to sort out which companies are best suited for your application.

Before you decide to trash that old classic car radio because it has bad reception ask the experts if they can do anything to make it work the way you want.  Drop by your local store or do a quick search on the Internet. You might find someone who can help in forums and blogs too. Different companies have different price ranges and use different materials, either to produce a new radio or to repair the old one. It is always wise to shop around and compare the prices before buying anything.

Posted in Classic Cars | 2 Comments

Chrome bumper and trim maintenance

Posted on February 10, 2012 by

Chrome bumpers use to be the rage in the olden days and they are still installed on cars today just less. There are also chrome looking bumpers on cars that are not really chrome. They are made out of stainless steel. Maintaining that shine of your chrome bumper and trim is not as troublesome or as difficult as you imagine- if you know the right place to find the right tools or helping hand.

Although it gives that classy, more expensive look a chrome bumper is harder to maintain than stainless steel bumpers. Car manufactures chose chrome bumpers and trim because it  made the car look more elegant.

Other than that, chrome bumpers are way more durable than plastic bumpers because they are tougher and can sustain harder blows. Because bumpers are installed to stop your car from too much damage in a touch and go accident, it can still get scratches and dents. Maintaining the shine and the smooth surface of a chrome bumper and trim or a steel bumper that is coated with nickel-chrome is a problem you are facing. Fret not, because you are not alone.

To keep your chrome bumper and trim shiny and new, there are a number of garages out there that provide the service. Some companies even specialize in chrome bumper and trim restoration. They help patch up holes, repair dents, polish the bumpers and so on. Simply do a quick search online and you’ll find a list of companies offering services to help maintain your chrome bumpers and trim.

You can change your chrome bumper and trim yourself if you do not want to take it to the chrome shop. There are also self-adhesive chrome bumper strips found in the automotive aftermarket. They come in different sizes, so be sure to measure the width and length of your bumpers before going to the store. A few mm might seem like a small difference, but when you look at it, it could be a problem to a trained eye. The advantage of the chrome strips is that they are affordable and they are not hard to use; the downside however, is that it does not last long. The colors will start to fade and eventually corrode after a few years if left in inclement weather.

If your steel bumper is not too damaged, you can choose to get it chrome plated instead of tearing off the whole thing and getting a new one. By doing so, you can save money and the environment. Tossing away a bumper that is terribly scratched or dented is a big waste when it is still usable. When you get the bumper plated with chrome, it will definitely look new. You do not have to worry about the chrome plating peeling off or rusting unless it is done by unprofessional workers, the plating usually last a long, long time.

There are several shades of chrome to choose from. When you decide to start plating or re-plating your bumpers with chrome, be sure to ask for the choices. Before bringing your car to the shop you should look around for the shades of chrome that you desire. Search for the one that goes best with your car color. If you are unsure of what color you should choose, look around for cars that are the same model as yours. It can give you a rough idea on how your car will look like after the plating.

Always check and ask around in order to find the best price for maintenance of your chrome bumpers and trim. It is possible that you will need to go back often to restore the condition of your chrome bumper and trim, so when you find a trustworthy and affordable restoration facility stick withy them.

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